Roadside tramping – Day 18
March 6th, 2008 Posted in Spain, To Be A Pilgrim
It’s sad to leave Astorga, and a few miles north we look from a plateau back to see the town bathed in the dawn light. Pleasant walking through wheat fields bring us to Hospital de Orbigo, which has a fabulous long pilgrim bridge with no fewer than twenty arches. It was built in the eleventh century for what was clearly then a much larger river, before a giant irrigation dam robbed it of life. It is known as the Bridge of Paso Honroso after a jousting tournament, one of the most famous of the Middle Ages, was held here in 1434. Lasting a month, three hundred lances were broken by seventy eight knights, and one knight was killed. The ten victors, of Leon, continued to Santiago, and placed a gilt silver collar on a processional statue of St James which is still there today.
Beyond the bridge is a familiar campervan. John says he’s here to cheer up pilgrims who have just completed a long road stretch, which is bad news for us as this is what we have to come. It’s busy with traffic and straight as an arrow for mile after mile, becoming mind-numbingly tedious in the heat. When approaching a village the road is so straight that it seems much nearer than it is, and it never feels like we’re making any progress. Even when reached, the villages are dusty, characterless ribbons along the road. By 3 o’clock the temperature has reached 1000F, and we stop at a hostel in an old schoolhouse, with mattresses on the floor.
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6 Comments
By Mark on Mar 6, 2008
Really enjoying reading about your walk. I assume that there is great pleasure to be had in reliving these memories by writing about your trip?
By Paul on Mar 7, 2008
I’m so glad I kept a journal when doing the route as it has the power to bring everything flooding back; such a great experience it’s good to have the chance to live it again.
By patriciamd on Mar 7, 2008
Like you I do enjoy writing about my journeys. i keep entries of the places and adventures I’ve had, so when I look back and read those entries, I can tell myself I lived a good life.And I do enjoy reading about journeys.Hope to read more of your journals.
By Dennis on Mar 8, 2008
I find your journal and photosboth very entertaining and inspiring.I have kept notes of our travels with intentions to write them into a journal, but seldom get around to it–now I will! Thanks for the inspiration.
By Paul on Mar 8, 2008
Thanks. My problem is maybe the gap between what you’d want to have in your journal to remember your trip and what other people might want to read. I’ve a tendency to not want to miss anything out, including how tedious a section of the walk might have been – I want to remember it all, but do you want to read it?!
By The Solitary Walker on Mar 10, 2008
in my own view I think you’re getting the balance just about right, Paul.