The Big Walk

Swot Team - Day 46

The GR11 has two options from Isaba, a steep rock scramble up a fearsome-looking peak known as Ezkaurre, first of the two-thousand metre mountains – or a shorter route through the forests to the north. We use the excuse of our heavy packs to go for the easier option. The problem with the path dividing is that the markings are even harder to follow than before. The sections through the trees are straightforward enough but each time we emerge into big grassy clearings there’s no clue as to which direction we should head next. We make only slow progress; I wouldn’t mind but every time we stop and try to work out our bearings we are attacked by hordes of giant horseflies, which drive me crazy with stings.
By early afternoon we reach a huge organised campsite, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, and set up the tent. The scenery here is awe-inspiring: huge peaks of bare rock tower above the vast forest, which harbours western Europe’s last remaining population of indigenous brown bears. It’s easy to imagine them roaming here. For the third successive day the weather breaks in the late afternoon and pouring rain lashes the tent, lit by brilliant lightning – a warning that we’d better make sure we reach camp early over the next few days. Still, nothing can dampen my spirits – we’re amongst the real mountains at last.

Zuriza campsite views