The Big Walk

The Big Paella - Day 30

We’re passing frequently through villages again, which is good news as it means I don’t have to carry four kilos of water, with every Spanish village having a public fountain. Many houses here are stone to the top of the ground floor windows, with timber framing and plaster above. At home such houses would be restored and treasured, but here they are falling into ruin, many having become derelict whilst their owners have moved into a modern house they’ve built in the garden – a real shame, but I suppose it’s much cheaper than renovation. For once outsiders moving in with a little cash to invest would seem a good idea. There is virtually no traffic; car ownership here is so low that in one village the dusty football pitch has its goals on opposite sides of the main road.

Finally we reach a town of old houses clustered on a hilltop; Graňon. We wonder around looking for the hostel before noticing that the side door of the church has a brass knocker in the shape of a pilgrim staff, gourd and scallop shell – the hostel is within. The interior is wonderfully ancient and seems to have been purpose built at the same time as the church itself whilst the bell tower is used for hanging out your clothes to dry. Run by friendly religious volunteers; the service provided here includes meals and the ‘donations only’ approach is taken to an extreme – the money box on the sideboard is left open with a sign telling you to ‘leave what you can afford; or take what you need’. In the evening, the village priest comes to dine with the pilgrims and a giant paella is cooked on a three foot wide pan sitting on a burner, and is accompanied with wine, salads and fruits. Afterwards, we’re given the option of either heading into the church next door to pray, or doing the washing up instead; I opt for the latter.