The Big Walk

Under the stars – Day 6

 Helen is hobbling terribly as we leave town and it doesn’t seem like we’ll be able to go far. The only encouragement comes from seeing the state of the people coming the other way; if this motley crew have managed it, so can we! By the time we’ve reached the top of the Monte de Gozo Helen is walking more easily as her foot has gone numb. This hill used to be the key final landmark for the pilgrims, giving the first sight of the cathedral – but today it’s not even visible for the sprawling suburbs and hotel complex. The only thing to see is a monument to a recent visit by the Pope, and one to St Francis of Assisi, who made the journey in 1214. We’re hoping to walk through Assisi on our own route, and it’s humbling to realise that what is today such an unusual journey to undertake on foot was once almost commonplace.

Beyond the city, the Galician countryside is fabulously green and rich with hedges, trees (many of them eucalyptus), and every kind of crop. With the plentiful rain, it’s nothing like I’d imagined Spain, having more in common with Celtic fringes of Britain. The villages look more modern than before Santiago but the people here still work the land by hand, wearing huge straw hats to protect against the heat. I suppose it’s this hand-powered agriculture that has helped to preserve the tiny fields and wildlife. Now Helen’s really got going and the miles fly past as we plod on into the evening, until we spot a fabulous hidden camp spot under a huge old oak tree. Although it seems opportunities to use it on the Camino will be limited – we’ve not seen an open campsite – we are carrying a lightweight tent which will be essential to keep costs down and get through the remoter areas of our planned route. We go on to a nearby bar for a sandwich, where a man talks to us for fifteen minutes without us understanding a single word, before heading back and pitching our tent as darkness falls. This paper-thin structure is supposed to be able to stand in near-hurricane winds – it seems unlikely, but tonight is calm.